Part 1 - Sewing The Darts and Tucks

Historic patterns were designed with very different base measurements than the population has now. 

It is important to make a fitting muslin that can be adjusted to your specific body type,

before constructing the garment from your final fabric. 

STEP ONE



On the wrong side of the Bandeau - mark the darts. 

Pin through the marked lines, and stitch. 

 Press the darts (over a pressing ham) away from the center front.

With right sides together, join the center front seam of the Bandeau. 

Press seam open.

STEP TWO

On the right side, mark the solid and dashed lines for the tucks.

Crease the fabric on the solid line, and bring the fold down to the dashed line.

Pin in place. 

I like to mark the beginning and end of the lines with a little vertical mark (see above),

so that I can easily see where to stop and start the stitching. 

Before starting to stitch, pull out some of the bobbin and top threads so that you 

have some extra length to start with. Do not back stitch at the beginning or end.

Stitch close to the folded edge to secure. 

When taking the fabric out of the machine, leave extra lengths of thread

just as you did at the beginning. 

Stitched tucks shown above, with long threads at each end of stitching. 

Turn the Bandeau over so that the wrong side is facing up. 

Tug gently on the bobbin thread at one end of the seam,

until you see a loop of the top thread appear.  

Using a straight pin, catch the loop and pull the top thread through to the wrong side. 

Tie the two threadstogether in a knot. Clip the extra thread tails off. 

(If desired dab a bit of fray check on the knot. Let dry before clipping threads.)

Repeat the same steps to sew all of the tucks. 

Press tucks toward the lower edge.